Ice Climbing & Mountaineering

Yesterday, Mike Newlands, Jess Miltenberger, Adam Hufford and I went up to Jewel Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park for a casual day of ice climbing. We had stunningly perfect weather for the hike in. I lead the first pitch in solid style, feeling quite comfortable in my new Vasque single boots. Pysched on the Boa lacing.

We each took a turn on toprope. Jess learned quickly how to get into a groove and topped out on her first attempt…but dealt with a bout of “screaming barfies” while rewarming her hands at the base. Adam led two pitches later in the day, and I took photos from the top. Topped it off with beer and chili rellenos at Ed’s in downtown Estes. All in all a great day.

To make it easier to experience America’s Great Outdoors, the National Park Service is waiving entrance fees, so visitors can enjoy all 392 national parks for free April 17-25.

In addition, many national park concessioners are offering special promotions that are certain to add to your fun.

Took advantage of a warm afternoon to swing tools at Hidden Falls. There was a party of two pulling their rope and packing when we arrived around 2pm; we had the ice to ourselves as the sun sank into the Divide. We each took a half-dozen laps, hooking wherever possible to preserve this super popular ice crag. Feels good to get out!

Took a hike today up into Glacier Gorge to swing tools and check out the Black Lake Area.  Super glad we didn’t take skis….would have been a scrape-fest.  And was, for the folks who tried.  All Mixed Up looks quite thin.  We climbed a sweet one pitch WI2-3 just below Black Lake, sticking to the left side.  I think the climb is named “Reflections” but it wasn’t the WI3-4 that Mountain Project claims.  Afterwards we checked out the Black Lake Slabs which appear to be in but thin, especially at the top.  West Gully looks pretty good.  We’ll definitely head back up there for some more winter fun.  Can’t hope for too many days with weather like today, though!

Yes, we threw ourselves against the flanks of Longs Peak in winter yet again, and as before were tossed away like so many rag dolls. We didn’t have much ambition this morning; had the weather been bluebird we may have perservered. As it was, though (windy, cool, snowy, windy, and windy) we opted to turn back around treeline after snapping a few photos. A great hike and an early morning, but no winter summit for us.

We went to Ouray last weekend to swing tools and visit with friends.  Drove down on Thursday in mediocre weather and spent the night at the Vic with Matt and Emily.  We climbed on Friday, meeting up with Dave Kast and his wife Kelly…friends of old from my very first days with the POC.  Kate and Brian drove down with their lab Lhotse on Friday as well.
Towards the end of the day, Matt and Emily went to check in to our rental house while Dave, Apryle and I got our last sticks for the day.  Matt called on the cell with with what we were sure was a joke: our house had been hit by an avalanche.

No joke, the rental house got hit by a big slide on Thursday, lost a few windows and was full of snow.  The rental agency moved us into a hooked-up condo, though, and we had no avalanche trouble for the rest of the weekend.

Highlights of the trip included excellent meals each evening, a keg of fine homebrew, telling old stories, and of course, swinging tools into steep blue ice. We didn’t climb too hard, but for the last day.  Apryle and I took turns dropping each other into Pic’ of the Vic and Five Fingers until we could hardly hold our tools.

All in all a great trip; can’t wait to do it again next year!

Matt on tele gear. Ha!