John Mercke and I went up for a ramble in the Mt. Meeker cirque of Rocky Mountain National Park yesterday (October 30, 2012) to do some climbing and check out ice climbing conditions. Chasm Lake is solidly frozen. Overall, the mountains are surprisingly dry, and we need more snow for better conditions to form up.
We climbed the Flying Dutchman and found overall good conditions: mostly firm snow (kicking 3in deep steps) with a bit of knee-deep wallowing. The crux pitch had plenty of good ice and took two 16cm screws (one just touched rock) and some rock pro. We descended the Loft, easily on mostly firm snow.
The Loft ice is forming, but not quite in.
Dreamweaver is forming, but looks like it would involve a good bit of rock climbing.
Martha isn’t in yet. We need some more snow, sun, and cold nights.
The Peacock Pool ice is forming and mostly climbable, but thin with water flowing behind the ice. Fine for some top-roping but I wouldn’t lead it quite yet! We top-roped the rightmost flow after descending from the Dutchman and it was fun, if still a bit thin.
I’ve heard that Alexander’s Chimney is in, but haven’t climbed it.
A party climbed Fields Chimney yesterday, and we saw them coming across Broadway – so presumably the route is in enough to climb.