* saturday *
Approx 45 degrees and windy as hell. lou and i were rained out before accomplishing anything monumental. lou did burn 5.8 for the 2nd time; he and i split the first 2 pitches of Prune 5.7, with myself taking the easier 1st pitch of 5.5ish. Lou left around 3pm after dropping me off at the Princess Snowbird campground, where we coincidentally ran into Emily Cough, Matt Belfour, Katie O’Malley, and Adam (?). I put my tent up as the wind whipped my tarp, tent, and rainfly around and lou primarily watched with his hands in his pockets. it felt good to get stuff done despite the increasing numbness in my fingers as I poked around to penetrate the rocky soil with the cold metal tent stakes. tent up, I chucked my stuff in it from the lou’s car, he took off, and I sought shelter under the impressive tarp fortress Matt and Emily have a tradition of building on wet, windy seneca days. we headed to the chili cookoff where there was no vegetarian options this year. i got myself a pizza on the porch and had dinner with a group of kids from pittsburgh who happened to know Shingo. We watched a slide show from a dude who put up mega routes in Yosemite in the 80s, dirtbagging from year to year in order to climb more. very inspirational. listened to some bluegrass bands and headed back to the campground.
Back at camp, matt built a fire and phil showed up earlier than usual. sweet! i told him i might back out of the new years daks trip we’d been talking about and he told me he had a backup plan, anyhow. with that said, I proceeded directly to my tent, where I attempted to hide out alone after the slap in the face that comes with being sold-out on an expedition. phil would have none of it. despite my efforts to put him out, we ended up talking and talking until we fell asleep happily in each others arms.
* sunday: phil’s fall *
Beautiful blue skies. i led a 5.7 Dufty’s popoff; phil did castor 10a and attempted Orange-Aid 10b, where he proceeded to take a 40-45 footer on my belay. only injury incurred was some minor rope burn on my right hand. i did not let him reattempt the climb.